Wanderlust

Let’s be honest, a visit to the city of Portland, Maine isn’t on most travellers’ itinerary. I certainly wouldn’t have made a trip there were it not to see my friend, Saffron. However I have to say I was pleasantly surprised by Portland.

Firstly, it has a small-town feel despite being a city. It boasts historic houses with classical architecture interspersed with modern buildings, all set on the waterfront. I’ll confess that I was not as enamoured by wafts of the ocean (read ‘fishy’) breeze which assaulted the nostrils at times, but this was easy to look past. Its ‘Old Port Neighbourhood’ has cobblestone streets and beautiful brick buildings that hold boutique stores and a myriad of cafes, bars and restaurants. Walking through its streets, you almost feel transported to a 19th- century English town.

The great thing about Portland is that it caters to a lot of different types of tourists: the foodies, the history/architecture buffs, the nature lovers, the shopaholics etc. Downtown Portland is easily navigable and unlike quite a few cities in the States, it is also very walkable – there are actual sidewalks and zebra crossings! It also has a (good for the US) public transport system, which allows one to explore parts of the greater Portland area.

Breathtaking views at Portland Head Light

Here are things to do in Portland….

If you’re a foodie

Portland has a vibrant foodie scene; it was voted ‘Restaurant City of the Year’ in 2018 and ranked 2nd in ‘Best Foodie City in America’ in 2023. I was especially lucky to have a local to take me to all the best places. I was blown away by the choice available in this small city – the range of cuisines, interesting flavours and also the unpretentiousness of a lot of the establishments. These were my favourite spots:

The Standard Baking Co: for the most delicious pastries and artisanal breads. I especially loved their morning buns, which often sold out within a couple of hours. Be prepared to queue.

Tandem Coffee and Bakery: also a highly recommended spot but I was always too lazy to get there early enough for the pastries.

Izakaya Minato & Pai Men Miyake: delicious Japanese food that will have you hankering for a visit to Japan.

Duckfat: their poutine rivalled dishes I had in Quebec (where poutine originates). It was mouthwateringly scrumptious and the scores of people waiting in line for a coveted seat at this restaurant clearly felt the same.

Eventide Oyster Co: is the place to go for the famed lobster roll.

Twelve: for those in search of a fine dining restaurant that delivers on all fronts.

Miss Portland Diner & Becky’s Diner: for an all-american fare. Ask to be seated in the vintage dining car at MPD, it was all the vibes.

The Holy Donut: I’m including this because it is a Maine institution, and everyone told me to try it. They make a variety of interesting flavoured potato-based donuts, which were perfectly nice… but I’d much rather have a proper doughnut!

(L) The vintage dining car at Miss Portland Diner (M) Delicious ramen at Honey Paw (R) Fine dining at Twelve, with Saffron

If you’re a nature lover

There are lovely parks dotted around the city but my favourite by far was Fort Williams Park. This former military fort is now a park that can be accessed for free. It offers dramatic sweeping views of the Portland Coast, view of and a museum about ‘Portland Head Light’ (Maine’s oldest lighthouse), hiking trails that lead to a rocky beach and ruins of Battery Keyes.

Exploring Fort Williams Park where Portland Head Light is located

There are also coastal walks closer to the downtown area, like the ‘Eastern Promenade Trail’ which takes you along the Maine Narrow Gauge Railroad (you can hop on for a scenic train ride and a history lesson), onwards to East End Beach (a public sandy beach where you can swim or kayak) and ends at Back Cove (which also has its waterfront trail).

And of course, you can explore nearby islands in Casco Bay, like Peaks Island (read about Peaks Island here). Or head to Mackworth Island, which is even smaller and quieter. There is an easy walking trail, 1.5mile loop around the island, which offers scenic views of Casco Bay. (There is also a pet cemetery for the more morbid, and a cutesy fairy garden).

View of Ship Cove beach at Fort Williams Park

Braving a climb on rocky outcroppings at the cliff’s edge

If you’re into history and culture

Downtown Portland has a lot of art galleries and museums. There is the Portland Museum of Art which has a collection of American and International art, both classical and contemporary (you can get in for free on Fridays, between 4-8pm). And Maine Historical Society Museum, where you can learn all about centuries of life in Maine. For a fun way to learn about Maine, take the aforementioned Narrow Gauge Train or head to the museum of the same name. There is even a Museum of African Culture in Portland! It houses a collection of Sub-Saharan artefacts and art.

For architecture lovers, Victoria Mansion – a beautiful 19th century Italianate Villa with the original lavish interiors is a must-visit.

Other activities

Pharologists (lighthouse enthusiasts) can explore other lighthouses in the area, including ‘Bug Light’, Cape Elizabeth Light and Spring Point Ledge Lighthouse.

Spring Point Ledge Light. It extends out from a nearby rocky beach. Jumping the rocks to get to the lighthouse was a bit of fun.

Shopaholics will enjoy meandering about the ‘Old Port’ neighbourhood and try not to buy up boutique shops selling local Maine produce and products, from blueberry-flavoured everything to vintage interior decor and antiques. Alternatively, drive up to Freeport shopping centre and explore outlet designer stores, including the LL Bean store which is apparently a major attraction.

Portland is also well-known for its breweries and oysters – both high on the list for most visitors.

My friend Saffron was a wonderful hostess. In addition to the above, we explored the nightlife (we discovered an Afrobeats club!), drove to the Desert of Maine (an unusual but interesting attraction), had a night at the Circus, and went to a concert in Bangor (where I of course had to check out Stephen King’s house. But also had the experience of being slightly terrified walking some of the streets…the residents did not look particularly friendly seeing a black person in their midst).