I fell in love with Nicaragua as my ferry approached Ometepe Island. 

The view of its two volcanoes rising out from Lake Nicaragua, their peaks hidden by puffs of brilliant white clouds set against the backdrop of clear blue skies was a balm to my soul.

It cleared my mind of the frustrations of the journey from Costa Rica to Nicaragua…the funny mishap when my friend, Milou, and I joined the wrong queue at the border (we inadvertently stood in the queue to (re)enter Costa Rica!) and the less funny experience of (what felt like) everyone we met trying to rip us off.  (By the way, if you are planning a trip to Latin America, ‘alongdustyroads’ is a brilliant travel blog that I found inordinately helpful for practical tips like how to navigate the borders).

There is something magical about Ometepe. It starts with its shape. The two volcanoes of Ometepe island, Concepción and Maderas, are connected by an isthmus, Istian, which gives the island the appearance of a figure eight or the infinity symbol.  Many locals believe this makes it a powerful place of healing. It is well -known for the abundance of yoga and meditation retreats and other wellness communities. 

Ometepe is a lush tropical paradise that still feels remote, despite being on the backpacker trail. There is a sublime tranquility to the island (once you get away from the main port, Moyogalpa) and a rhythm to its way of life that feels very much governed by nature; the days activities really do begin with the sunrise and end with the sunset. 

I spent 5 days in Ometepe and opted to stay in Balgüe, a village in the northern part of Volcán Maderas. All guide books tell you to skip Moyogalpa (the oldest and biggest town) and head east towards Altagracia or south towards Balgüe or Merida and I would agree with them. The island is much larger than it looks on a map. For example, the drive from Moyogalpa to Balgüe was almost an hour long. There are a few cars on the island, but most tourists rent bicycles, scooters or ATVs; the local bus schedule is erratic and taxis are expensive.  

I stayed at La Urraca Loca, attracted by pictures of their lush gardens, the thatched roofs and rustic bamboo architecture of the buildings. My room had two balconies, one with views of Volcán Maderas and the surrounding forest, the other of the beautiful garden. I woke up to birdsong, the low guttural growls of howler monkeys…and the daily task of clearing up droppings from my mosquito net; this was a gross and unforeseen consequence of insects, birds and other animals nestling in the thatch roof!  

I spent my mornings reading in bed, and would then take a leisurely stroll to Cafe Campestre for lunch. This farm to table restaurant was one of the highlights of my time in Ometepe. They served the most scrumptious food, from burgers and pasta to curries and cookies. They are the exception to (my) rule that restaurants that serve a wide range of dishes and cuisines are often the master of none. Every lunch and dinner I had on the island bar one was at Campestre, which is unlike me…and a testament to how much I loved it. 

I spent my second full day on the island walking the stretch of Playa Santa Cruz (Santa Cruz beach). The hour long walk to and from my hostel felt much longer and intense in the heat and humidity of the island. I was surprised by the murky brown water at the beach (don’t expect crystal clear waters in Ometepe). However the beach is bracketed by gorgeous views of Volcán Concepción to the north, and Maderas to the south. I had the beach to myself for most of the afternoon and spent the hours reading between naps. 

On day three, I felt brave enough to hire a scooter; my very first time driving one! It started off scary (I was driving so slowly, I was overtaken by a cyclist)… and then it was exhilarating to zip along the road with the wind in my hair…right until I drove into a wire fence! Don’t ask. I was unhurt, and more importantly so was the scooter (I’d have had to pay damages). You traverse the roads on Ometepe at your peril. The main road around Volcán Concepción, which continues east of Maderas is paved but the rest are dusty, pot-holed tracks that require attention, and confidence, to navigate. I decided to limit my adventures to safer routes. 

I made it to El Ojo de Agua (‘Eye of the Water’). This famous watering hole, made up of two stone pools, is fed by an underwater volcanic thermal spring. It gives you the crystal clear waters you expect on a beautiful island. The volcanic waters are mineral-rich and said to have medicinal properties. Surrounded by lush tropical plants, it was the perfect place to escape the tropical heat. There are rope swings, a slack line and other water games, with cabanas and deck chairs around the pools. It does get quite busy in the afternoons (more so at weekends) so you do have to time your visit well.

My next stop was El Pital (Chocolate Paradise), a multi-purpose cocoa farm with a raw organic vegan chocolate factory, stylish vegan cafe, luxurious cabins and a hostel. Set in the jungle, towered over by trees teeming with birds, monkeys and abundant verdant green vegetation, it sits at the edge of the lake. In addition to comfy chairs and couches that invite you to lounge, the cafe has swings, hammocks, and a deck, all framing views of Concepción. I arrived on an overcast, rainy and wet day but was blown away by the beauty and serenity of the setting. The food was utterly delicious and I still dream of the rich, velvety creaminess of their chocolate smoothie. 

On my last full day at Ometepe, I went in search of kayaking adventures. I eschewed the scooter and after getting tired of playing a waiting game with the local bus, decided to walk. I had a lot of time to question the wisdom of that decision, as I very quickly became overwhelmed by the hot, sticky weather. I arrived at Playa Mangos a couple of hours later terribly exhausted and in need of a nap! 

Playa Mangos was recommended by my hostel as a good place to kayak. The beach lived up to its name; the air was filled with the sweet smell of mangoes and the beach was littered with hundreds of mangoes. I had gotten there early enough to catch the staff at work clearing up. I really did intend to go kayaking but went into a comatose state once I lay in a hammock. In any case, the lake was choppy and I didn’t fancy adding a bout of seasickness to exhaustion. So it was another afternoon spent reading, swinging from the most magnificent mango tree I had ever come across, while being hypnotised by the gorgeous views. 

Despite the slow pace of the island, there is a lot to do. Top of the list for most tourists is a volcano climb. The larger, taller Volcán Concepción (5,280ft) is an active volcano, which last erupted in 2010. The shorter, squat Volcán Maderas (4500-plus ft) is dormant but has a crater lake that creates natural springs and waterfalls. (I had read enough about how challenging those hikes were that I knew I would not attempt a climb) Other activities include kayaking on Rio Istian, hiking to San Ramon waterfall, watching the sunset at Punta Jesus Maria, visiting Charco Verde nature reserve etc. 

I remember my time on Ometepe fondly; walks along its quiet streets, the air filled with the aroma of ripe tropical fruits and the sing-song of bird calls. The brief chats with friendly locals, often found sitting outside their homes as the sun dipped in the horizon, and most of all, the breathtaking views of the volcanoes and lake.

I felt truly refreshed and energised at the end of my stay. I wished I could have stayed longer but I was also quite excited to see the rest of this country that had quietly stolen my heart. 

Have you ever been to a place and fallen in love with it (unexpectedly)? Tell me where and why…

Visited June 2022

Previous Post – Costa Rica: The Good, The Bad and The Ugly.