*….if you happen to be not too far from Belize!

I loved my time in Belize.

I’m not sure this country had been on my radar before I set off on my trip but as I travelled through Central America, I became increasingly intrigued by the idea of visiting the sole English speaking country in the region. 

In case you don’t know (I didn’t), Belize is a former British Colony. It was previously called British Honduras but changed its name when it became a self-governing state. It achieved independence in 1987. It feels more Caribbean than Central American, and its diverse population is made up of Mayans, Creoles (mixed-race descendants from West/Central African slaves) and Garifuna/Garinagu (descents from West/Central Africa and the Caribbean who were never enslaved). English is the official language but most of the population (about half) speak Belize Creole.  

Belize is mostly made up of coastline, with many coral reefs and islands. It is said to have over 400 cayes (‘keys’)/ islands and its barrier reef (the largest in the northern hemisphere) is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. I headed to Caye Caulker, the recommended island destination for budget travellers. (However I’ll prewarn beach lovers that this small island doesn’t have the impressive beach area one would imagine). My journey was straightforward – 5 hours on a tourist shuttle bus from Flores, Guatemala to Belize City and then a 45-minute ride in a water taxi to Caye Caulker.

There isn’t a whole lot to do in Caye Caulker…and that’s part of the charm of this coral island. The island’s motto is ‘Go Slow’, and its inhabitants embody this. Whenever I think of my time on the island, I remember walking past a group of elderly men sitting on a corner drinking and playing games, and one of them calling out to me, ‘Go slow baby, this ‘ain’t New York!’. I was walking at my normal pace but even that was too quick for this island. 

The roads on the island are sandy, and there are no cars; you walk, cycle or rent a buggy to get around. The island is only about 5 miles long, so utterly walkable. I spent days wandering around its pastel coloured wooden houses on stilts and palm trees, peering into shops and cafes on the Main Street. Locals hung around on stoops, people watching and providing commentary. 

Following a hurricane in 1961, a deep channel developed that split the island into two. This is ‘the split’ – site of the best beach on the south island and the place to go for a swim, to catch live music shows or watch a beautiful sunset. (P.S. The sunsets on the island were unexpectedly beautiful). The south island holds the usual tourist amenities, hostels, hotels, supermarkets and restaurants. Its shores are dotted with some public, but mostly private jetties. 

The northside island is more undeveloped and contains private residences and beach clubs. I spent an afternoon at Koko King Beach Club. It had one of the few truly sandy beaches with crystal clear waters, and a resort vibe to it. I attempted to walk inland to explore the rest of the north island but within minutes I was driven back to the beach club by a swarm of mosquitoes in attack mode. 

By far the best thing to do on Caye Caulker is take advantage of its proximity to the barrier reef and go snorkelling or diving. There are many businesses offering boat tours; the most popular are a half-day (3 hrs) or a full-day (5-6 hrs) tour. I opted for the former because I was concerned a longer tour increased the likelihood I’d be seasick. I was right to be worried and despite my precautions, I did become seasick and felt ill halfway through our tour. 

I was lucky enough to have only one couple on tour with me (an elderly couple from the States) who were pretty confident swimmers. This meant my tour guide Victor (Reef Snorkelling tours) gave me a 1:1 tour experience…literally holding my hand and swimming with me, pointing out unusual fish and rainbow-coloured corals. First stop was ‘Shark Ray Alley’, where we swum with stingrays, nurse sharks, and sea turtles. It was shallow enough at this site that you could see straight down to the seabed, and walk among the fish. Next we rode through the South Channel for more swimming/diving…and we saw a manatee! Lastly at ‘Coral Garden’ we had the opportunity to inspect corals of all shapes, sizes and colours sparkling in the turquoise blue waters, and to swim with fish that lived in and around them. I had tons of fun and I think this topped my snorkelling experience in Thailand (due to the variety of fish we saw here). The tour ended with a stop right next to the island, where we got to feed tarpons (big fish) and frigates (birds)…the latter required some serious clenching of my derriere as I stood at the bow of the boat, holding a fish above my head and watched a bird swoop down and grab it. 

My last full day on Caye Caulker happened to be the first day of their lobster festival weekend – an annual celebration of the official start of lobster harvesting, and summer! As I walked along main street towards The Split, I saw vendors setting up stalls and grill masters lighting their barbecues. There was a variety of crustaceans on offer, all a fraction of their cost in the UK. I had a delicious lunch -a huge lobster with rice & beans and a side of plantain and coleslaw for the equivalent of $10. At the opening ceremony in the evening, we were serenaded by a fantastic steel band. The night was filled with the sounds of music and laughter, the air charged with dancing and the aroma of good food; it was wonderful.

I was sad to leave Caye Caulker. In fact, I considered extending my stay but (unsurprisingly) all hotels and hostels were fully booked that weekend! So as the water taxi pulled away the next morning, I took with me the vivid colours of the island, the warmth of its people, the beauty of its marine reserves and the tranquillity that pervades it. I would love to return.

Visited June 2022

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