There’s a reason every travel itinerary to Guatemala includes a visit to Lake Atitlán. This stunningly beautiful and serene volcanic lake is surrounded by three volcanoes and lush mountains, the foothills of which are dotted with thirteen distinctive indigenous towns. I arrived in San Pedro La Laguna (one of said towns) on a slightly overcast afternoon in June, after a 3-hr drive in a shuttle from Antigua.
I was unprepared for the severe motion sickness I experienced on the drive, despite taking all precautions I had at my disposal (two different anti-sickness tablets and travel wristbands). I barely made it to my hotel to sleep off a headache…(after I had thrown up on the way there). The winding roads of the Guatemalan highlands are notorious for causing motion sickness. I chose to cancel a trip to Semuc Champey (a breathtaking nature reserve), rather than subject myself to another torturous drive; one reputed to be even more sickness-inducing than the drive from Antigua to Atitlán.
Lake Atitlán is home to a mostly Indigenous population; 95 per cent of the almost 400,000 inhabitants are Mayan. They have retained a lot of their culture and traditions despite increased tourism to the area; for example, ancient Mayan languages such as Tz’utujil and Kaqchikel are still spoken (in San Pedro and Panajachel respectively). However there are worries that tourism has led to commodification of Mayan culture, as is happening in many other parts of the world.
San Pedro has a reputation as ‘backpacker haven’, which conjures up nights of heavy drinking and partying. I stayed away from its main drag, and was often back at my hotel by nightfall so didn’t experience that aspect of the town. Instead I enjoyed walking along its shores in the morning, when I’d be joined by locals (young and old) bathing, swimming or washing clothes in the lake; and exploring its labyrinthine network of streets and alleyways. This became a favourite pastime when those alleyways led to such discoveries as ‘Italian Bakery’, a divine cafe with the most scrumptious pastries. In the more tourist towns, locals appeared to live on higher ground (uphill from the lake) abandoning lakefront properties to eateries, shops, hotels and tourists. San Pedro town centre was uphill. A local church held pride of place in a square, surrounded by a thriving market.
On my first full day at Atitlán, I hopped on a lancha (water taxi) and headed to the town of San Marcos La Laguna. Aka ‘hippie heaven’, it is the place to be if you are searching for yoga and wellness retreats and exclusive vegetarian/vegan eateries. It is much smaller, quieter and calmer than San Pedro. The waters by the shore were also cleaner and clearer. Although the general advice is not to go swimming in Lake Atitlán due to concerns about pollution (there are issues with waste and sewage disposal into the lake), the waters around San Marco are thought to be safer. The main attraction for me was that a walk by its shores allowed me to fully appreciate views of two of three volcanoes around Atitlán, San Pedro and Toliman. (Volcan Atitlán sits just behind Toliman).
Continuing my walk west of San Marcos, I arrived at Cerro Tzankuijl Nature Reserve. Paths are etched onto rocky terrain and lead to quiet shaded gardens, viewing platforms, a ‘trampolin’ (a platform that allows one to jump twenty metres into the crystal clear waters below) or towards the summit where a Mayan altar rests. I took the path downhill towards a bay. I spent a couple of hours reading a book while perched on a rocky seat, watching the waves crest and the clouds pass over the volcanoes as boats glided by. It was a very tranquil setting. Being safety conscious on the trip, I tried not to wander along the lake or in the streets late at night, so I often returned to San Pedro before sunset. This means I missed out on the epic sunsets that Atitlán is famous for (the sun sets behind San Pedro). However I looked forward to watching a sunrise over the lake on my ‘Indian Nose’ hike.
La Nariz de Indio (‘Indian Nose’), a series of ridges which resemble the profile of a sleeping Mayan when viewed from across the lake (from San Pedro), is the perfect spot for sunrise views over the lake. I took an organised tour and was picked up at 4am. After a thirty minute drive along serpentine roads, we arrived at the start of the hike (in Santa Clara La Laguna). It was a 30-40 minute hike which I thought was quite easy. We started off on flat terrain, walking past cornfields and farmland and then there was a steep ascent along a winding path, to the lower mirador (viewpoint). Here we were greeted by a double storey structure set into the mountainside, which served as a viewing platform, and a solitary bench by its edge.
We arrived in advance of the sunrise and watched as lights twinkled in the towns below, and the sun began to rise above the horizon. As the sky changed colour from an inky blue to azure, with streaks of orange & yellow hues in the horizon, the group fell silent. We all stared in awe at the magnificent views of the lake. Our vantage point allowed a rare view of the chain of Guatemalan volcanoes San Pedro, Tolima, Atitlán…but also Acatenango and Fuego. Better still, we were lucky enough to witness an eruption from Fuego! It was a wonderful experience (and my pictures really don’t do the views justice).
We stayed long enough to take more pictures and warm ourselves up with the cups of Guatemalan tea and coffee offered by the guides (the area is exposed and gets quite chilly). We were all in high spirits on the walk back to the shuttle. It was a much quicker 20-minute walk downhill and I was back at my hotel by 8am.
Later in the day, I took another lancha for a much longer boat ride to Panajachel, the largest town by the lake. ‘Pana’ (as it is more commonly called) is on the north shore of Atitlán and an hour away from San Pedro. I have to confess that my first impressions were not great. The docks were noisy, busy and not at all picturesque. The main street, Calle Santander, is lined with roadside stalls and shops filled with souvenirs and other tourist paraphernalia, although there were also some authentic handmade goods and beautiful textiles. There are cafes and restaurants aplenty, and hotels for all budgets. After the relative quiet of the other towns, I found Pana overwhelming. It does have the best transport links and amenities of all the towns in Atitlán evidenced by the crowds of people and buildings. Although it was not my vibe, it is said to be the place to catch the best sunset views over the volcanoes. I had a quick lunch but my plan to further explore the town was abandoned after dark clouds gathered and the heavens opened. I raced back to the docks, to catch a ferry back to San Pedro.
Unfortunately I was caught in a thunderstorm that evening and it rained all day the next day (which was my last full day in Atitlán). I had intended to visit two towns – San Juan La Laguna (for its art scene) and Santa Catarina Palopó, which holds the crown as the prettiest lake town, due to its brightly coloured houses adorned with Mayan designs. However I had to console myself with stuffing my face with pastries from ‘Italian Bakery’ in the morning, and wandering from coffee shop to coffee shop in San Pedro the rest of the day. All in all, not a bad way to end the trip.
Other activities to do in Lake Atitlán include kayaking on the lake, hiking up San Pedro volcano, taking Spanish language lessons or Guatemalan cooking classes and of course, exploring as many of the towns and villages as you can. I had a lovely time in Atitlán, and wish I could’ve stayed longer!
Visited June 2022.
Lake Atitlán is my favourite type of holiday destination, I love the combination of mountain and lake views and activities. What’s yours?
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