I spent a pretty miserable week (weather-wise) in Antigua, Guatemala. It rained every single day I was there, which scuppered all my plans. In fact, the only saving grace of that week was the fact that I thoroughly enjoyed my experience of Spanish school…and that even in the rain, Antigua is a pretty cool city.

Most backpackers travelling in Central America tend to have an itinerary that starts either in Mexico (heading South) or Costa Rica (heading North); one that often doesn’t include Honduras or El Salvador. I had been looking forward to visiting both countries but decided to prioritise attending a Spanish school in Antigua instead. This meant I had to survive an 18-hour bus ride from León, Nicaragua to Guatemala. I am one of those unfortunate humans who suffers with motion sickness, and I was fully prepared to feel awful every minute of the journey. Surprisingly, it went much more smoothly than expected…turns out I can sleep for 17 hours and 59 minutes!

Antigua, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is a pretty colonial city with colourful houses on cobbled streets interspersed with the impressive architecture of the cathedrals, convents and colleges, set in a lush valley surrounded by stunning views of three volcanoes. The city is laid out in a grid pattern (which I love) and which makes it easy to find your way around. Although this city clearly caters to tourists, with a host of hostels and hotels and an impressive array of fantastic restaurants and cafes, it doesn’t feel touristy. There is still a charm to it, from its market stalls full of food and handicraft goods, to the colourful camionetas (chicken buses) that traverse its streets, and the ruins around the city following a disastrous earthquake in 1773, when Antigua was the capital city of Guatemala. 

Parque Central, the central park/main square, is the hub of the city, and sits in the shadow of Catedral San Jose. Here low and medium- range souvenir shops and high-end boutiques fight for business with Mayans hawking their wares on the streets. Pro tip: Walk a few blocks west, to the Mercado de Artesanias (Artesanal Market) where you can get the same souvenirs for much cheaper. Incongruously, chains like Taco Bell and Burger King sit side by side with authentic hole in the wall cafes and restaurants serving the most delicious foods. (My homestay provided three meals a day, so I didn’t get to sample as many eateries as I would have liked. One of many reasons to return to this city). 

I enjoyed wandering around Antigua, in the mornings before or the evenings after my Spanish class. There was always something new to discover in every corner. Each part of the Old Town had a different feel to it. The buzz of the West Side gave way to the quieter more residential East Side, and rooftop bars and restaurants along the North/South axis offered views of the surrounding landscape. 

Things to do in Antigua include hiking up a volcano…or two! I was more inclined to go up Pacaya volcano (where you are able to roast marshmallows over the vents that give off steam) than Acatenango (a two day hike, with a promise to see the eruption of the Fuego volcano. This was, of course, hugely dependent on good weather). After my Inca Trail experience, I now opt out of hiking up mountains or volcanoes when good weather isn’t guaranteed. My plan to visit villages around Antigua, such as Chichicastenango (home to the largest Mayan population in the county, and a reputation for the largest and most colourful outdoor market in the Americas), San Antonio Agua Calientes (an indigenous town known for its handwoven textiles) or even Hobbitenango (an eco-tourist town/theme park loosely based on Lord of the Rings) were abandoned as I couldn’t go on the trips and make it back in time for my Spanish class. 

However I have no regrets, as my experience of the week-long Spanish immersion course (which included a homestay with a wonderful Antiguenan family) was totally fantastic. I booked with ‘Spanish Academy Antiguena’, which had come highly recommended by a fellow traveller.

My host family were a  multi-generational household, parents Francisco and Anna who lived with their two daughters and their families (both daughters had husbands and two kids each). The house was simply furnished and looked deceptively small from the outside (the streets of Antigua are lined with what appear to be single-storied colonial houses). However on entering, it revealed a two -storied building with an inner courtyard. I counted 8-bedrooms and although the daughters’ families each slept in one room (apparently this is typical in Guatemala), they had their own kitchen-diners which they used daily except on Fridays when all the family got together for dinner in the main kitchen.

Francisco and Anna were absolute gems. An elderly couple in their 60s, they had been hosting students for about 6 years, after Francisco retired from his job as a lecturer. Anna had always been a homemaker. They did not speak a word of English so I had lots of opportunities to practice my Spanish. I also had two lovely host siblings, Julia from Canada and Matt from England…we snuck in some English once in a while at home. I stayed in a pretty basic single bedroom, with an en-suite. I remember struggling to sleep on my first night there. I was cold,  the mattress was thin and springy and all I wanted was to be in a comfortable hotel or Airbnb. I’m glad I persevered, the discomfort of the room paled in significance when compared to the warmth, kindness and care offered by the family. 

My days started with breakfast with Anna (which I often missed as I’m not a breakfast kind of girl), lunch just before my Spanish lesson, and then dinner with Anna, Francisco and my host siblings. We often chatted through the meal, Francisco and Anna telling us about Antiguan history, culture and traditions. His family had lived in Antigua for generations! Anna was a fantastic cook and made traditional Guatemalan dishes such as Pepián (a hearty chicken stew), Caldo de Res (beef broth), Tamales Colorados (steamed corn dough with a savoury red sauce), Pupusa (stuffed thick corn tortillas) etc. The meals were quite hearty and plentiful (often with side dishes of rice, beans, tortillas etc…and avocado). I ate so much during that week, I practically had to be rolled out of the house at the end of my stay! Guatamala is the birthplace of the avocado and I have to say I had some of the most delicious tasting avocados there.

My Spanish lessons with the Academy took place in a beautiful setting, a huge house with a gorgeous courtyard minutes from my homestay. It involved 1:1 sessions with my tutor, Carmen Jovita, for 4 hours each day.  It was intense and I was often exhausted at the end of the day but I thoroughly enjoyed it and my Spanish improved a lot in that week. Guatemala is one of the top destinations for students who want to learn Spanish because Guatemalan Spanish is spoken slowly and clearly, in a neutral accent. Also, the lessons are very affordable. If you’re ever in that neck of the woods, I would recommend taking Spanish lessons.  

I feel like I wasn’t a proper tourist in Antigua. I was either too busy with lessons and homework or felt too mentally fatigued to engage in other activities. It was both a good and bad thing. It was lovely to wander the city with the mindset of a local – taking in the sights, the hustle and bustle with the air of someone who will have time to do ‘the touristy thing’ at a later date. Unfortunately, it means I don’t have many pictures of my time there and sadly while writing this, I realised I have no pictures of my host family. However, I have decided these are two more reasons for me to return to Antigua some day!

Visited June 2022.

Would you ever consider a homestay while travelling? If not, why not?

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