My time in Cartagena did not get off to a promising start. Sitting at breakfast on the balcony of my hotel, at 8am on my first day in the city, I felt suffocated by the oppressive heat. It was 33 degrees celsius (in the shade), and about 90% humid; stepping out into the open, it felt like 40 degrees. I was suddenly rethinking my plan to spend 7 days in Cartagena. My mood wasn’t helped by the fact that the friend I’d planned to meet up with had had to cut short his trip by a day, so I had lost my tour guide and it was too late to join an organised walking tour. I decided to wear my big girl pants, brave the weather and do what I do best, wander. 

My hotel was conveniently situated a stone’s throw from Plaza de la Trinidad (site for delicious street food and epic street parties). The surrounding streets were adorned with colourful bunting, balconies dripping in bougainvillea and stunning graffiti murals that spoke to the bohemian spirit of this Getsemani neighbourhood. There were a myriad of businesses – open and closed art galleries, hipster bars, trendy cafes, upscale restaurants, and boutique hotels that suggested the barrio (neighbourhood) was going through a gentrification process. Getsemani was once a haven for criminal activity, drugs, prostitution etc but has shedded that reputation and become a sanctuary for the weary backpacker. Although perched right next to the Old Town, it is much edgier, cooler and authentic; it retains the charms of a place undiscovered by mass tourism. 

A couple of hours later, and a ten minute walk from Getsemani, I find myself at the Historic Center of Cartagena de Indias. The walled city of Cartagena is a UNESCO world heritage site, and one of the best-preserved examples of colonial architecture. Walking along the cobbled streets, with the clippety-clop of horses ringing in my ears, I almost felt like I had been transported to the 17th century. Imposing pastel-hued facades line the streets, their grand and commanding doorways hinting at an extravagance and luxury behind those doors; columns and arches make covered walkways that offer some protection from the blistering sun, as do the terraces and inner courtyards. Carved wood balconies and walls lined with trailing vines add atmosphere to the picturesque setting.

Founded in 1533, Cartagena was the main trading port for Spanish ships carrying precious metals (gold, silver) and other treasures from South America to Spain.  Sadly, in the 17th century, it also became a major hub for slavery in the region. The streets of the old city are laid out in a grid pattern and enclosed by thick stone walls, which are interspersed with fortresses and bastions. The walls were built over a 200-year period (completed in 1796), to protect the town from plundering pirates.   These days, they are a perfect jump off point for a walk that allows you to appreciate the historic architecture of the city while taking in the beautiful views of the Caribbean Sea; they are even more perfect as a spot to watch the sunset.

There is no getting away from the fact that Cartagena is a top tourist destination in Colombia; the streets thrum with tourists, and you are never too far away from a group posing with smiling palenqueras – those ladies dressed in brightly-coloured traditional clothes and balancing bowls of fruit atop their heads. Nor are you far away from street vendors and hawkers who are very keen to attract you to buy their wares. I have to confess that within the old town, the vendors were quite persistent and it felt intrusive at times; very different to my experience of other places in Colombia.

Strolling around Cartagena was the first time on my trip that I bemoaned the restrictions my backpack had placed on my clothing options. The streets begged for pictures in beautiful flowing gowns that contrasted with the colourful walls and doors and were appropriate for the numerous fine dining options. Cartagena is a city that caters to high end tourism, it is much more expensive than other cities in Colombia. It was an enjoyable experience for me, as a budget friendly tourist but I personally would have loved to have stayed in a swanky boutique hotel, shopped at its artisan stores, and dined at the best restaurants. And if I ever make my way back there, I intend to do so in style!

I had planned to stay in Cartagena for a week…but ran out of new things to do after a few days! There are some museums and activities but it’s a city made much more for an ‘eat, drink and be merry’ approach to holidaying. Cartagena is a foodie heaven, and I had the best meals in Colombia while I was there. I still dream of the dishes I had at  Sambal, Celele and cafe El Bololo, to name a few. I was obsessed with the gelato at Percimon, located at the corner of Carrera 9 and Calle 39; I felt proud of the self-control I showed by limiting myself to only twice daily helpings! Haha.

Nightlife in Cartagena is very lively. Street performers appear on every corner and at every plaza ranging from dance troupes performing traditional dances like Cumbia to rap battles, mimes and even Michael Jackson impersonators; and one is never far away from a street party. I was dragged to karaoke and a terrific street party by a friend (Denise) who was on a girls trip from Cali, with her friends. Although they were much less impressed by Cartagena’s party scene (apparently Cali is the place to go), we had a wonderful time.

If, like me, you prefer your holiday activity-packed then 7 days is much too long to spend in Cartagena (I did decamp to an island for a few days…look out for that blog post next week). A long weekend spent wandering Getsemani and the Old Town, taking pictures against the city’s stunningly colourful background, eating each meal at a different cafe or restaurant and dancing the night away would be my recommendation. You can thank me later.

Visited May 2022